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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone driven a 2332cc vw bug everyday on the street with a t4 main BMW main bearing conversion all in a mag case. Oh! the crank is vw journal.
 

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Mine is a 78 with type 4 mains and BMW bearing. I had the thrust at the center but have it apart to change to the rear and a cam change and install my tool steel lifters.
 

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Just the center main?

Motor doesn't really care what bearings are in it. As long as clearances are right and good building practices are used. The BMW bearing will probably last a lot longer than any stock style bearing would anyway.
 

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I am trying a nice thrust bearing right now, i used the bmw bearings and cut the original thrust bearing to make the shoulder get bolted to the case , i can post a picture tomorrow . this may work on the street also . But i have it still ont he rear not the center

Udo
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Udo please post a picture. I have a really nice case here ( jamaica ) to buy i think its a type2 mag case, its new and i want to do an engine from this also was looking at building my dream engine ( 2332cc ) with this case.

Last question do you guys think that we could go all BMW bearings in the t1 block if so this will erode all fears of quality bearings for the t1 and if so are these bearing all t4 center.
 

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This is the bearing i made from an original bmw just like Mike and other do on the center main. But i have a 90 degreese angel on the shoulder . Seems stronger for me. The other is original type1 , but no longer avaliable.

Udo
 

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shag55 said:
That's nice work Udo! Must have been hard to cut those bearing flanges off like that.
Not hard but it takes one hour . I do not know the machine in english ..

Mike
I try this on my engine this year, but looks very save . And you only must change the adapter bearings .

Udo
 

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Yes and alu case is the same. But i would not take a used case for that . it is expensive and most not worth on a case that has not the correct inside diameter for the bearings

Udo
 

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Inside diameter is type4.

Don , i cut both sides this time to get the oil groove in the center. but next time i will cut it only on one side. I have to drill the hole for the oil inlet next

Udo
 

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I just trimmed a set of BMW bearings last night. I believe it's better to trim equally off both sides, otherwise the tang would be on the edge of the bearing. The bearing I use are .950 (approx) wide and they need to be to .860" wide to fit into the type 1 saddle with no overhang. This leaves about .090" from the edge of the bearing to the tang. If it were all trimmed off one side, one tang would be very close to the edge. The oil hole has to opened anyway, and it seems it's not in the same place in all cases, so it has to be opened for the case it is being used for.

Udo, are the thrust pieces you have pictured there cut from the BMW bearing or are they part of a type 1 or 4 bearing? I measured the thrust flange thickness of a BMW bearing and it's really close to being perfect for the standard width of the thrust saddle of the case. (.095" thick)
 

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Yes it is from original bmw bearing.
You are right . and if i do not cut both sides you can not change only the bearing inside when freshnup the engine . Endplay must be ok , i try this on friday . Too much business right now. I wish i had more time for my engines :sad:

Udo
 

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Mike

I got some endplay but only in each case half . Not when bolted together. what i do now is we grind the thrust when boring the case for flywheel seal . I am happy that i found a company that does this job right . they also bored one single bearing for type 4 and things like that .
I think you know that not all cranks are cut right to get endplay , i had some that must get cut between crank and flansh

Udo
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mike Udo what do you guys use to cut ( narrow ) the BMW bearing so it will fit the t1 saddles.
 

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I have a special tool to make my own adapter bearings . But you can get them at Gene Berg , Scat , Jay Cee , Bugpack ...

Udo
 
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