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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all!

I'm new to the air cooled game and am trying to gain a better understanding of them so excuse any questions that seem obvious or make no sense.

I'm trying to figure out what motor I have but I suspect it's completely custom done. I'll try to break down what I know about the motor and then what I have found through research. Maybe the answer is simple and maybe I need to do more work to figure it out. Any help would be great!

The block numbers suggest it's a mexico 1200, D11978118. Seems simple.
It is dual port intake, has 2 intake ports on each side or one per piston. From what I can tell that was on the 1600 motor?
Bore stroke is 69mm, from what I found the 1200 motor should be 64mm. (I measured by pulling a spark plugs and marked a small rod and tdc and then rotated engine to the bottom)
It has an oil filter on the left side of the motor below the main drive belt. Couldn't find a lot of info on this but seems like it could be factory depending on the motor year but if the block is is correct it's likely aftermarket.

So here are the questions at this point.
Is this a factor motor and I'm just identifying it wrong?
Can you take a short block for vw and put on different jugs (Not sure what you calls the piston housing thing) positions and heads to make a single port motor a "long stroke" and convert to dual port using factory parts or would everything have to be aftermarket/custom?
Is there a way to measure piston bore without pulling the heads?
I want to pull the valve cover since it just clips on just to look at it, do I need to drain the oil before I do that?
IF pulling the heads is the best thing to do for better engine ID what advise do you have for me I have rebuilt a few rotary motors (mazda) but not that experienced with piston engines only other one I did was a motorcycle I just finished building.

I'm wanting to upgrade the car a little and get some more power from it and not really sure where to start but knowing as much as I can might give me a good idea on where to go.

Any input is greatly appreciated thank you in advance!
 

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The block numbers suggest it's a mexico 1200, D11978118. Seems simple.
It is dual port intake, has 2 intake ports on each side or one per piston. From what I can tell that was on the 1600 motor?
Bore stroke is 69mm, from what I found the 1200 motor should be 64mm. (I measured by pulling a spark plugs and marked a small rod and tdc and then rotated engine to the bottom)
It has an oil filter on the left side of the motor below the main drive belt. Couldn't find a lot of info on this but seems like it could be factory depending on the motor year but if the block is is correct it's likely aftermarket.

So here are the questions at this point.
1. Is this a factor motor and I'm just identifying it wrong?
2. Can you take a short block for vw and put on different jugs (Not sure what you calls the piston housing thing) positions and heads to make a single port motor a "long stroke" and convert to dual port using factory parts or would everything have to be aftermarket/custom?
3. Is there a way to measure piston bore without pulling the heads?
4. I want to pull the valve cover since it just clips on just to look at it, do I need to drain the oil before I do that?
5. IF pulling the heads is the best thing to do for better engine ID what advise do you have for me I have rebuilt a few rotary motors (mazda) but not that experienced with piston engines only other one I did was a motorcycle I just finished building.
Hopefully you have already gotten an answer but just in case let me break down your questions:
1. Yes and no, the D1 was also used as an aftermarket but likely it started life as a 40hp case. See here for a good list: https://www.aircooled.net/vw-engine-codes/
2. Yes you can change the slugs and jugs but there are limits and some mods require machining the case. Single to dual port heads on a 1500/1600 is a straight swap.
3. Nope, you have to pull the heads to get the bore
4. You do not have to drain the oil before removing the valve covers, you will get a bit of residual leakage but its minimal.
5. In order to pull the heads, work from the top down, start with removing carb, gen/alt and fan shroud together, intake and exhaust manifolds, cylinder cooling tin, valve covers, valves, push rods, and then finally the heads and push rod tubes.
 
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