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I’m 19 I have a 1970 vw Ghia (first project car) the belt blew a few weeks ago so I replace it but the car would bog under load when I change gears. I then was told it was bad points so I replace that and decided to replace the condenser as well. Now the car won’t start. After some messing with the distributor I was able to get a spark. Still wouldn’t start. Went ahead and tested the coil, wasn’t getting a spark from the coil. Got a new coil and the car still won’t start after testing with the meter both old and new coil and power. I’m completely at a loss, does anyone know what I’m missing or what could be going on?
 

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I’m 19 I have a 1970 vw Ghia (first project car) the belt blew a few weeks ago so I replace it but the car would bog under load when I change gears. I then was told it was bad points so I replace that and decided to replace the condenser as well. Now the car won’t start. After some messing with the distributor I was able to get a spark. Still wouldn’t start. Went ahead and tested the coil, wasn’t getting a spark from the coil. Got a new coil and the car still won’t start after testing with the meter both old and new coil and power. I’m completely at a loss, does anyone know what I’m missing or what could be going on?
your engine requires air, fuel, and a spark at the correct time in its running cycle to run.
If any of those 3 items are missing or the air and fuel arent in a fairly close to correct proportion to each other, there will be no va.

As a general troubleshooting guide, when a problem arises, always look first to the last things touched.

Lets break it down...
1) blew a belt (aka swung a heavy kevlar reinforced rubber whip at 300 mph around engine compartment for awhile)
Happens.
May have moved the timing if the distributor wast tight and it got smacked, might have ripped the vacuum advance hose/lines/tube on your carb off, which will kill off idle drivability. may have cracked distributor cap.
Either way, retarded timing will make it run lame, as will a vacuum leak or any multitude of other things.
Note it was still drivable at that point.

2)randomly replaced parts, possibly not installed correctly.

I suggest reinstalling the original parts, borrow a timing light or even a 12v test light, and set your points gap and timing just like the manual says, even if that may not be ideal due to mods or modern fuels, it should still run. note the coil fires when the points OPEN.

Then you can describe in clear detail any deviation from stock or any mods, exactly, or at least tell us how it went.

If you have an aircooled vw club in your area, or even any car club that supports older cars, bikers are good, get some local eyeballs on it, gearheads help each other , even if they may be driving a 67 mustang or riding a Hog or (an old) Honda.... they all have the same basic issues.
 

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I’m 19 I have a 1970 vw Ghia (first project car) the belt blew a few weeks ago so I replace it but the car would bog under load when I change gears. I then was told it was bad points so I replace that and decided to replace the condenser as well. Now the car won’t start. After some messing with the distributor I was able to get a spark. Still wouldn’t start. Went ahead and tested the coil, wasn’t getting a spark from the coil. Got a new coil and the car still won’t start after testing with the meter both old and new coil and power. I’m completely at a loss, does anyone know what I’m missing or what could be going on?
check wire to fuel cutoff valve
 

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your engine requires air, fuel, and a spark at the correct time in its running cycle to run.
If any of those 3 items are missing or the air and fuel arent in a fairly close to correct proportion to each other, there will be no va.

As a general troubleshooting guide, when a problem arises, always look first to the last things touched.

Lets break it down...
1) blew a belt (aka swung a heavy kevlar reinforced rubber whip at 300 mph around engine compartment for awhile)
Happens.
May have moved the timing if the distributor wast tight and it got smacked, might have ripped the vacuum advance hose/lines/tube on your carb off, which will kill off idle drivability. may have cracked distributor cap.
Either way, retarded timing will make it run lame, as will a vacuum leak or any multitude of other things.
Note it was still drivable at that point.

2)randomly replaced parts, possibly not installed correctly.

I suggest reinstalling the original parts, borrow a timing light or even a 12v test light, and set your points gap and timing just like the manual says, even if that may not be ideal due to mods or modern fuels, it should still run. note the coil fires when the points OPEN.

Then you can describe in clear detail any deviation from stock or any mods, exactly, or at least tell us how it went.

If you have an aircooled vw club in your area, or even any car club that supports older cars, bikers are good, get some local eyeballs on it, gearheads help each other , even if they may be driving a 67 mustang or riding a Hog or (an old) Honda.... they all have the same basic issues.
X2
 

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Hi....Had a comparable issue with an old city, it was a discontinuous bombing fuel siphon hand-off. now and then it worked and everything was extraordinary at times it didnt and would not begin as the fuel siphon would not turn on. Would consistently begin after for the time being however actually like your circumstance.
 
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