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Discussion Starter #1
Are folks using the paper gaskets for the cylinder to case seal or are you using something else? I don't want to use rtv unless that is what you have to use.

So, what say you?
 

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Throw the paper gaskets out and use sealer. Everyone will recommend something different. I've used everything from silicon to super weather strip adhesive. Btw how many engines have you built?
 

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Hey mister Fye --- Somebody recently turned me onto Yamabond semi-drying make sure you get the semi-drying --- stuff is cool and it cleans up better than gasket cinch or rtv

[img= width=450 height=800]http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/Fiatdude/photobucket-19027-1338773949042.jpg[/img]
 

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If I had been having to cleanup Gasket Cinch each time ....... I would be still cleaning the case -- pretty impressed with the stuff so far
 

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Ive been using yamabond but the replacement and better stuff is 3bond 1211. looks like a higher silicone content and people like Roger Crawford use it. Its easy to spot its almost white when it drys. I was told by the man use half the normal amount when sealing up stuff.

 

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notched said:
Bath tub caulk. Make sure it's avocado green.
you make jokes, but 35 years ago, when I worked part time in motorcycle shops, almost no car mechanic used RTV based sealants... you had the motorcycle 'Kawasaki Bond' and Yamabond used only for sealing case halves of two-stroke engines, automatic transmission techs used something similar, but you couldn't find it or any other RTV-based sealants at any autoparts stores. Aviation form-a-gasket, and the dreaded 'dries harder than a honeymooner's prick' Permatex.

A friend's Dad and aerospace electronics engineer turned me onto using expired mil spec RTV back then, after seeing us struggle making and ruining paper gaskets (by hand) for our junk mini-bike and motorcycle engines. I found, I'm sure others did as well, we could purchase 'Clear Glass Sealer' made by General Electric's chem division from the hardware store, which was essentially a thicker version of today's automotive grade RTV. The 20 year old 'ultra' series RTV's spread a lot smoother than that old formulation.

The old time auto mechanics would just laugh at those using the stuff... who's go the last laugh, now? :lmao:
 

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I've been using an aluminium colored silcone from the hvac guys @ work. It cleans off/up real easy. I was using that ultra copper in black and it was a bitch to clean. I've heard good things about that stuff your using Harold. What cleans it up?
 

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Hard to believe that RTV didn't exist at one point... Has to be the most over used product in engine building now... I've seen it inside motors! Who needs bearings when ya have orange RTV! :tickedoff:
 

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notched said:
I've seen it inside motors! Who needs bearings when ya have orange RTV! :tickedoff:
as my friend Dick Bieth says "only use a very small bead, just enough to cover the flange, and no thicker than .017 !!" :happy:
 

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Tim Haugen said:
I've been using an aluminium colored silcone from the hvac guys @ work. It cleans off/up real easy. I was using that ultra copper in black and it was a bitch to clean. I've heard good things about that stuff your using Harold. What cleans it up?
I haven't heated it up yet, but so far when I've split the case, I just take a red shop rag and rub it and it peels right off.... pretty easy and pretty cool
 

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Discussion Starter #16
notched said:
I've seen it inside motors! Who needs bearings when ya have orange RTV! :tickedoff:
And, this is why I was asking about other means of sealing the barrels to the case!
 

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I've used blue RTV in the engines I've built so far... no problems, no leakage. The key is using it very sparingly so it DOESN'T end up inside the engine. Just a thing bead does the trick.

That being said, I did tear apart a 1600 that the numbnutted previous builder used orange RTV to seal the oil pump. Holy crap. The guy (who lives in Klamath Falls, identity withheld otherwise) has no business working on Volkswagens. Total hillbilly hack.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've seen RTV in places it should never have been Tom. It is amazing to me what people are capable of (and I don't mean that in a good way). :doh:
 

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In my "ten years before the mast" at Saturn I used boat loads of Loctite 515/518 with excellent results.
And even more of the GM equivalent to Permatex Ultra Gray (steel oil pans & alum timing covers) with
no leaks. Both products light years better than the Permatex "Poop in a Tube" we used back in the 60's.
 
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