Different kits.......

My system is home designed. The NOS kits for VW's I have seen are designed with all the stock engine components in place. The nozzles go into the manifolds on the outside. My car being drag only with no fan housing, it was decided to mount the nozzles on the inside for easy access to the jets. I had done reseach on nitrous systems for a couple of years and worked with Gary Calvert here locally on his nitrous VW for a year while wondering what to do on my car. Gary had the normal NOS four soleniod system on his car and worked great. Gary came up with the idea of using just two soleniods mounted in the middle of the motor area with lines going over to the nozzles mounted on the inside of the manifolds. As I was collecting the nitrous parts, I ran a seperate fuel system for the nitrous side. I run a red Holley pump for the carbs and a blue Holley pump for the juice. The Holley blue puts out more psi than the red pump since the juice will require 6-8 psi. I have two fuel regulators back at the motor. I made a bracket to hold the two NOS Cheater soleniods connected to a junction block. I used dynotunenitrous solfplume nozzles connected to the junction block with 15 inch flex lines. The system works very well.

Carl

And by the way, Jeff N, Jeff Rogers (badbug.com), and locashlester where very helpfull with the build.

Here is mine

After looking around the web for information about installing a nitrous system on my race car ( 2176 with dual IDAs ) I found there was nothing out there to even get me started, so I thought after all the turmoil I went through I would try and help yall out getting started with NITROUS.

All of the information is basis on what I ran into and what I found you really needed, to get started with. Also this information is how I setup my car. Here are some of my specs.

This information can also be found on my profile on the forum at http://www.volkstalk.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1

Year: 1968
Model: Chassis Bug
Engine Size cc: 2176
Case: Alum
Crank: DeMellow 78.4
Rods: DeMellow 5.5 Chevy
Cam: FK89
Pistons / Cylinders: 94mm AA
Heads: CNC Comp Elem. 44/37.5
Carbs: 48 IDAs
Nitrous: Nitrous
________________________________________
Gear Box Type: Bus 091
Ring/Pinion: 4.57
1st Gear: 3.40
2cd Gear: 2.21
3rd Gear: 1.48
4th Gear: 1.04

What you need to get started

First thing is the nitrous kit itself, I used the NOS V8 Fogger Nitrous System for my setup. Since I did my install NOS has come out with a system just for VWs Part #: 05082NOS at http://www.holley.com/05082NOS.asp . At this link you will find the kit as well as installation instructions on how to install the kit. These are a few things that you will need in addition to what comes in the kit.

Nitrous Gauge for your bottle pressure
Heater Kit to keep your bottle pressure stable when it’s cold ( Ideal temp 95 degs )
Fuel pressure switch ( Hobbs Switch )
Nitrous Filter
2 Fuel Regulators ( 1 for the carbs – 1 for the nitrous system )
Fuel supply ( I used 1 Holley Blue fuel pump 12psi with a 3/8 line running from the from of the car to the back at the regulators ) ( Most people say to run 2 fuel pumps and 2 fuel lines from the front to the rear, 1 for the carbs and 1 for the nitrous system ) Both seam to work just fine.
Aftermarket fuel filter
At least 1 extra bottle for a backup
Purge Kit to clean out the lines
MSD Retard module
MSD Distributor
MSD Coil
MSD 6AL Box
MSD 2 Step Module
All the MSD equipment is just what I used, Others can be used with no problem
You will need some fitting to tie everything together but you’re on your own with that. Everyone runs there line and sets there system up to what fits there car the best, as far as 45s , 90s, straights and other types of fittings.

Here we go Nitrous install 101

First thing is finding a place the mount your nitrous bottle, making sure where ever you put the bottle, make sure that the valve is to the front of the car. The bottle has a tube inside of it that runs to the bottom of the bottle, so it is very important that you mount the bottle in the right direction ( front to back ).

Next is the bottle heater, go ahead and put the bottle heater on the bottle with the wires loose for the time being.

[img= width=300 height=199]http://www.ktqh.com/ktracing/car20.JPG[/img]
Click here for a larger image
http://www.ktqh.com/ktracing/car20.JPG

Find the best location for your nitrous gauge in the dash or some were you can see it so you can monitor your nitrous pressure before engaging the system.

Your main nitrous switch ( on / off ), purge switch ( for clearing the lines ) & heater switch need to be mounted in a location that from the drivers seat you have easy access to them.

Install all of your MSD equipment, I put my AL6 box, 2 step & retard module in the passenger seat area for easy access for changing my chips out.

[img= width=300 height=199]http://www.ktqh.com/ktracing/car25.JPG[/img]
Click here for a larger image
http://www.ktqh.com/ktracing/car25.JPG

Now its time to wire everything up. MSD and NOS supply very good instruction and wiring diagrams with all the equipment that you have bought. I know you guys hate to READ instructions but I can’t stress enough how important it is to follow these instructions and DO what it says. There are a lot of different ways to do your final setup on your wiring. If you follow these instructions its not that hard. You will need a good bit of knowledge on electrical in order to get everything wired up. If you don’t find someone who does.

[img= width=300 height=199]http://www.volkstalk.com/motor.JPG[/img]

If you need a bigger picture, here ya go
http://www.volkstalk.com/motor.JPG

As for how to engage the system I perfere the wide open throttle method myself, so when you have your foot on the floor it engages the nitrous system. I mounted my WOT switch to the base of my right side weber with a small bracket I made, that way as the arm on the linkage comes down it trips and holds the switch closed and activates the system.

At this point we have to assume you have everything wired up on the Nitrous and MSD systems. ( That was easy for me to say )

Now for the fuel system. At this point you have decided which way to go, 1 line or 2. I am going to go through how I did mine. Go ahead and find a location in the engine compartment to mount your 2 regulators, I put one on the right and one on the left side of the fire wall just to make it easier running the lines. Now run your fuel line from your tank to your fuel pump or pumps using a 3/8 line or -8, from the output on the fuel pump, I ran -8 to my 3/8 hard line that goes to the back of the car. Coming out at the back of the car take your line into a GOOD aftermarket fuel filter or filters. From the fuel filter I took and went into a Y splitter for my 2 regulators, the first line went to my regulator controlling my carbs, take your line into the input side of the regulator, then take a line to from the 1st output to your left side carb, on the 2cd output you will have an adapter coming off the regulator that lets you screw in a fuel pressure gauge right on the regulator and then take a line from that adapter to your right side carb.

From the other side off the Y adapter run a line to your right side regulator to the input side. On your 1st output you will use the same type of adapter to hook up another fuel pressure gauge and your fuel pressure switch ( Hobbs Switch )at that regulator, coming from the 2cd output on your regulator that line will go straight to your fuel solenoid.

Now for the Nitrous Line. Coming off your nitrous bottle you will have an adapter that your heater switch will go into on one side and your main nitrous line will come off the other side, that line you will run to the back off the car coming out off the firewall around the fuel regulator, after you have the line coming out the back off the car you will install a Y adapter to the line. The 1st side goes to your purge solenoid which will be mounted right above you fuel regulator with the purge line pointed away from the car, your 2cd line coming from the Y adapter will go straight to your main nitrous solenoid with a nitrous filter between the line and the solenoid.

I made a small plate to mount my solenoids to that sits right in the middle and on top off my engine case as well as mounts to the case to hold it in place.

Fogger Installation. Your kit from NOS will come with the right size tap for tapping the holes in the intakes. I drilled my holes 1 inch up from the bottom of the intake in the middle of the port making sure the angle off the drill was at a 90deg angle on the intake. Once you have your holes drilled start tapping the holes making sure you don’t tap the hole to deep. If you tap the holes all the way through the fogger will go to deep into the intake. So when you start tapping your holes just go a little at a time so that the fogger ends up in the middle of the intake. To deep is BAD and no deep enough is Bad, in the middle is were you want the end off the nozzle. ( It goes without saying make sure the nozzle is pointing down to the head and NOT up to the carb.

Line Time. You have 2 options at this point, using the hard lines and bending them to go from your solenoids to your nozzles or using a 15 inch flex line. My first system I had the hard lines on and the system I am running at this time I am using flex lines. ( I like the flex lines a lot better )

Well at this point you have your plumbing work done. Time to finish your wiring on the nitrous solenoids, hobbs switch and purge system.

Now you have a hobbs switch on your fuel regulator that if for any reason you loose fuel pressure your nitrous system will not come on and go lean on you. ( All Nitrous and NO fuel is the worst kind of BAD NEWS )

The reason I use the flex lines on my system now is they are just a lot easier to work with when you are changing jets and working around the motor. I have not seen any performance difference between the flex and the hard lines. The flex lines will run you about $10.00 each, not cheap but well worth the money and the look cool to.

Just as an example this is the way I have my system setup to launch my car and what I do.
I have my 2step, retard module, clutch release, line lock and nitrous main switch going to 1 30amp relay so when I have my button on my shifter pressed it engages the 2step, retard module, clutch release, line lock and disables my main nitrous switch. So as soon as I see the 3rd light come on I release the button and my 2step goes to the 2cd step, the retard module takes out 3 degs off timing, the nitrous is activated, both clutch & brake release and away I go.

Just a few thing you need to Know

Rod Bearings. A few of us have been watching the effects that nitrous has on a stock Mahle rod bearing and its not a pretty site to see. The Nitrous hits so hard it flattens the rod bearings out pretty bad. Therefore I would suggest going to the Clevitte 77 Rods Bearing for more protection….

Rod Bolts. Since you are making the upgrade to a better Rod Bearing it does not cost that much more to make an upgrade to the ARP2000 Rod bolts.

Pistons. It is my opinion that upgrading to a better piston is not mandatory but I have had a piston come apart using Mahles so I would suggest going to a AA or a Wiseco for a stronger wrist pin area.

Compression. I run 10.5 to 1 compression but I know a lot of people that run as high as 12.5 to 1 compression running nitrous. In my opinion your in the safe zone running 11to 1 and under on your compression.
Fuel. If you are going to run nitrous I would highly recommend running a higher octane fuel in your car, I run VP C16 in mine and most of the guys I run with run the same thing.


I hope this information helps when you go and decide to install or run a nitrous system on your car. As long as you are careful and take a few precautions NITROUS is a blast and a rush.

TroyG