I'll try to cover everything you mentioned, sounds like you have your head on straight and you have really thought things out, BEFORE starting to chop and weld. That "system" you mentioned worked great, my concern was strength. I have been accused in the past of being a hack, but if I am not 100% sure something is safe, I will not use it. If something on that broke, I would crash, no doubt about it.
You can summerize drag racing a super with this: there are no aftermarket super beetle drag racing front suspension parts. Any aftermarket lowering parts have the side effect of actually STIFFENING the front end, when we should be doing the opposite. The other issue is caster. You have 2 options to add caster, get the offset bushings that actually pull the control arms and front wheels and everything forward slightly, or get the aftermarket sway bar that has this built in, or you can do both. I have tried everything and never been happy, so the next step is to start building my own stuff, more on that later. At one point I had a stock sway bar and stock struts that I relocated the spring perches to lower a few inches, it moved pretty free, but I was unhappy with how high the nose was. Mostly ego I suppose. The first picture I attached below shows that the nose is very high, but the tires are still on the ground. (also note that the sump is firmly planted on the track)Proof that the front end was freely moving, but as I said, I didn't like how high the car sat at rest. To go lower, I had to use the aftermarket sway bar, which is only available in 7/8" thick, which binds the front end right up to almost no movement. The second picture I attached shows the front end up, tires off the ground, but almost no tire drop. I had to make up for the lack of front end movement with the rear end squat. Not the correct way to do it but it got me off the line. I run 1.53 to 1.55 sixty foots. Tried that "sway bar delete", but didn't trust it.
Here is my next plan. 1) I want to relocate the inner control arm mounts to the top of the framehead instead of below it. This will make the control arm angle closer to stock, not angled way up. At 6-7" lowered, geometry gets screwed way up. 2) Delete the sway bar. Instead of the old system that you mentioned, this time I want truly delete the sway bar, not replace it with something else. I want to build an a-arm setup, adding 2 more mounts about 10" forward of the existing inner control arm mounts. This will allow the suspension to move without forcing it to bend 7/8" bars. 3) I am going to modify the struts to use a different spring that is available at my local race shop. This will allow me to use an off-the-shelf spring that I can swap out to fine tune the front end. I currently have stock springs, which work great on a stock car, but right now I can lift the front end of my car by myself, so stock springs are TOO STIFF. I may also have to re-shock if that is a word.
I hope I answered your questions, if not, let me know and I will try to help. What you described sounds like it could be stronger than what I did, I took that route because I wanted the option to be able to go back to stock if it didn't work. Plus, I have been clinging to the original parts as much as possible so people wouldn't say it's not really a super anymore. I think I am past that point now though. My main concern when I start building the new setup is adding adjustablility, camber and caster.