Electric Fuel Pump Installation
Step-By-Step
Since I'm running a 1975 fuel injected (FI) Beetle case with no provisions for a mechanical fuel pump, I needed to convert to an electric pump.
My first instinct was to get your standard Faucet solid-state type pump. But when you run one of these, you should always run a pressure regulator too. That can get rather expensive @ around $55 for the pair plus you have to live with that annoying "tick, tick, tick. . ." of the pump all the time. After some thought and debate, I opted for one of the rotary fuel pumps that C.B. Performance sells. It's made in the U.S.A. by Carter (P/N - 0G28B 504) and comes with a replaceable fuel filter already attached and ready to go. This unit has an INTERNAL pressure and is available in 3.5 & 5.5 psi models and retails for just under $45. Not a bad price for a quiet 12V pump w/ a regulator and filter!! For my Weber ICTs carbs, the one I needed was the 3.5 psi version.
cb-rotory-fpump.jpg (20332 bytes) fuel-pump-number.jpg (16195 bytes)
Electric fuel pumps typically are "push" pumps meaning they are capable of pushing fuel at their rated pressure. However, they are NOT capable of sucking fuel from a gas tank, so they MUST be mounted directly under the tank, or at least really darn close so that fuel can freely flow to it. This pump is just such a pump. I decided to mount mine against the sloping wall just forward and under the fuel tank. I just used an existing seatbelt mount bolt on which to mount the supplied rubber coated mounting clamp.
fuel-pump-pre.jpg (44222 bytes) fuel-pump-post.jpg (44794 bytes)
All that is needed now is to run the wiring to the supplied crimp connectors. The power needs to come from a "switched hot" meaning that it's energized whenever the ignition switch is in the "ON" position. The ground wire should ground to the body of the car. Since I don't want to disturb the un-cut sheet metal of my bus, I ran the ground to one of the nosecone nuts on the transmission.
Now I have whisper quiet and smooth fuel delivery at a constant 3.5 psi.
Since I'm running a 1975 fuel injected (FI) Beetle case with no provisions for a mechanical fuel pump, I needed to convert to an electric pump.
My first instinct was to get your standard Faucet solid-state type pump. But when you run one of these, you should always run a pressure regulator too. That can get rather expensive @ around $55 for the pair plus you have to live with that annoying "tick, tick, tick. . ." of the pump all the time. After some thought and debate, I opted for one of the rotary fuel pumps that C.B. Performance sells. It's made in the U.S.A. by Carter (P/N - 0G28B 504) and comes with a replaceable fuel filter already attached and ready to go. This unit has an INTERNAL pressure and is available in 3.5 & 5.5 psi models and retails for just under $45. Not a bad price for a quiet 12V pump w/ a regulator and filter!! For my Weber ICTs carbs, the one I needed was the 3.5 psi version.
cb-rotory-fpump.jpg (20332 bytes) fuel-pump-number.jpg (16195 bytes)
Electric fuel pumps typically are "push" pumps meaning they are capable of pushing fuel at their rated pressure. However, they are NOT capable of sucking fuel from a gas tank, so they MUST be mounted directly under the tank, or at least really darn close so that fuel can freely flow to it. This pump is just such a pump. I decided to mount mine against the sloping wall just forward and under the fuel tank. I just used an existing seatbelt mount bolt on which to mount the supplied rubber coated mounting clamp.
fuel-pump-pre.jpg (44222 bytes) fuel-pump-post.jpg (44794 bytes)
All that is needed now is to run the wiring to the supplied crimp connectors. The power needs to come from a "switched hot" meaning that it's energized whenever the ignition switch is in the "ON" position. The ground wire should ground to the body of the car. Since I don't want to disturb the un-cut sheet metal of my bus, I ran the ground to one of the nosecone nuts on the transmission.
Now I have whisper quiet and smooth fuel delivery at a constant 3.5 psi.
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