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unless youre planning on running promod,,I would stick with a wedge mated crank...the flange can survive a lot of street driving,,but you might want to get the center thrust conversion ..hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dred thanks for the reminder. Read my old post through again. Flanged can work but they have to be setup carefully. The original post was about BMW main bearing conversion.

I will be using all t4 mains on my crank and with the thrust bearing in the stock location.
 

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Hello,

yes, i think they can work, just need to do a good thrust bearing, UDO's 3 pieces thrust is impressive, i don't "understand" how it's possible to put that 3 (6 with the other side) screw just under the main bearing...drill on each side or drill all through the main ?? icing on the cake it seems to fit in the STD case machining (around 73mm of the shoulder)...

I'm actually working on BMW conversion but with a WBX/T4 pattern, i'm a little confused with how to put these screw and if i machine more or not the shoulder on the case...(to use all the surface available from the flywheel which is 75mm, just for 1mm extra reach)
 

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I've been running the set-up badbug refers to for several years. Taking a que from one of my overseas friends, I found it is not necessary to screw the thrust inserts in. The just need to be pinned so they can't turn. In this photo, the thrust inserts pictured have been in the motor for several years and show virtually no wear. I just replace the bearings periodically. BMW 530 six cylinder. They need to be narrowed a smidjin. Buy a set and there are seven bearings. Two bearing changes in one box for $100 plus a little work

There's no reason a flanged crank can't work on the street. Virtually every other automotive engine design on the planet uses that type of thrust.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone for the comments. I will look into the option of getting a flanged crank for my engine.
 

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Hello Mike,

Nice assembly, thanks for sharing.

Do the thrust bearing fit in the original alu case shoulder machining or did you need to widen it (outside diameter of the thrust washer).

How do you drill the inside face of the case, did you drilled throught the main from the outside to the other?

What kind of tool do you use to reduce bearing, do you use a abrasive coated flap disc or do you cut them with a small cutting disc or else. For just 1 mm on each side the abrasive flap disc seems to be more practical but how to do something really clean?

Do the main bearing need to be narrowed more than 22,00mm to ensure that the thrust washer will not push on it and only push on the case?
 

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I made the thrust inserts to fit the stock case with no machining.

I made a drilling fixture to drill the holes, and I used a small drill with a 90° attachment to drill the inner holes. The pins are 1/8" spring pins (roll pins), 1/2" long, and the holes are drilled about .420 deep. The thrust inserts seem to be pretty consistently .092 to .095" thick. I shoot for thrust clearance of .005 to .008. If it ends up as much as .010" I go with it.

I made a fixture to hold the bearing so I can cut it in the lathe.



 
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