Cool the oil all you want, but it will not affect the head temps unfortunatly.
Not worth the time/effort IMHO because there is no gain. Keep your head temps in line, and run reasonable rpms (extended periods of time) and spring pressures and the stock cooler is all you'll need.
From the testing i've done (going back to 1999 with this subject), oil temp is primarily due to shedding heat from the cam and lifters. There is heat put into it from other places, but this is the big one. Sustained high rpms (light or heavy load, no difference), and/or heavier springs raises oil temps the most. Example: my Berg dipstick on my bus will flicker (225-227 degrees) while going down a canyon at 65mph/4000rpm. But going up that same canyon, the rpms are lower and I never see my oil light flicker at all. Head temps going down the canyon are under 300, but going up the head temps are over 350, borderline 400 on some pulls.
Head temps are primarily from engine load.
I've gone the circles, going as far as removing ALL oil cooling from my daily driver bus to see what effect it had on head temps. It has none. As mentioned above, I was able to keep my oil temps below 225 while driving around the belt-route on a 95 degree day as long as I kept the bus under 54mph. Floored uphill, or 'cruising' back downhill, 54-55 was my limit to keep oil temps in line. Head temps run the same as they always do wether you let the oil cook, or you run too much oil cooling and the oil temp never comes up. Driving a VW here in Utah in the winter with a CHT gauge will show you that even with 100-120 degree oil temps, your head temps are still about where they are in the summer time. Cold oil just doesn't cool the heads.
Head temp is your critical engine temp. Keep that in line, and your oil temp should not be an issue.
Again, an oil cooler up front would not be worth the time unless you have a car that is running hard higher up in the rpm's for extended periods of time. Head temps, head temps, head temps.
