Aircooled Volkswagen Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

I'm new to the forum, although I've been reading here for several months trying to figure out why my 73 super beetle convertible isn't running right. I've read a lot about the 34 carb and the 009 distributor combination, and I took pictures of mine to ask you all if you can tell me which carb and distributor I have. If I have the 34 carb and 009 distributor, what are my steps to get it running right?

Here's the symptoms of my bug.

  • It was running fine, then one day in spring of this year, it started shooting black smoke out the exhaust. Parked it in the garage, started it once a week for the last 6 months.
  • Took it out over the summer for 5 minutes (outside temperature about 100 degrees), had lots of white smoke and oil burning smell. Parked. Oil had fountained out of the filler neck into the engine bay. Bubbled paint right under the rear deck lid. Presumed overheating.
  • Haven't dared to take it out again. Started running it once a week in the garage with the garage open.
  • Each time we start it up, it will run for a minute, then when warming up will die. Sometimes, it will continue idling indefinitely, but the second you tap the gas after warming up, it makes a loud sound (kind of like choking or screeching), and dies.
  • One time a month ago, just took it around the block in the neighborhood. It has serious difficulty accelerating past 5mph, chokes and stutters a ton. Then, once it chokes itself to 15mph, it accelerates fine, albeit very slowly.

Haven't been able to figure out how to get it running right. Please help! Thank you for your advice.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
I've read a lot about the 34 carb and the 009 distributor combination, and I took pictures of mine to ask you all if you can tell me which carb and distributor I have. If I have the 34 carb and 009 distributor, what are my steps to get it running right?
Those pictures show a 34pict3 and a 009 distributor.
Here is the thing though, the worst symptom of that combo is a flat spot (hesitation) when accelerating. And it can usually be jetted out.
I know the horror stories but have seen hundreds of engines running this combo and they all ran just fine.

As for your issues, tell me a story about all those burnt wires. You have numerous wires with melted shielding. Hot oil does not do that, that is usually evidence of shorted electrical.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As for your issues, tell me a story about all those burnt wires. You have numerous wires with melted shielding. Hot oil does not do that, that is usually evidence of shorted electrical.
That would explain the smell and smoke that didn't smell like burning oil. And that is good to know. I'm not experienced with wiring or electrical, so my best bet is probably to go to a vw mechanic on that.

I've attached links to two videos of my bug, the longer video is after the 5 minute run which resulted in tons of smoke and burning oil (and possibly burning wires). Also, on that trip, I couldn't get the bug above 35mph, no matter how much gas I gave it. It had no power.
The shorter video is after running it around the neighborhood. Also smoke, probably burning wires?

And, could you give more information on what jetting out is? I'm presuming to clean the jets, or to get bigger jets? Just want to clarify because of my lack of experience.

Thank you for your reply and advice! It is greatly appreciated.

Here is the shorter video (burning oil presumed burning wires)

Here is the longer video (burning oil and presumed burning wires):
This one is a few minutes long and will take a few hours to process on Youtube after posting this.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
By jetting out, I was referring to larger jets but I dont think that is your problem.
They may be gunked up, especially if the cars sits without running for extended periods of time.
Ethanol in the fuel is horrible, especially long term. Probably needs cleaned but again, I dont think the carb is your problem.

It is not running properly on all 4 cylinders. It almost acts like the timing is 180 degrees out or two cylinders aren't firing.
Really hard to tell from the video. This one is going to require more diagnosis than I can give to you over the internet.
Recommend you find someone that knows aircooled vw engines.

And better have someone chase your wiring harness for a grounded lead.
I would look at the reverse light lead coming off the coil first.
Again, you will want someone that knows aircooled vw's. The circuits aren't the same as a ford/chevy or anything else for that matter.

BTW, full oil capacity is less than 3 quarts on that engine. Check the dipstick with a cold engine.
Anything more than that and it will puke out that breather filter you have there.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
By jetting out, I was referring to larger jets but I dont think that is your problem.
They may be gunked up, especially if the cars sits without running for extended periods of time.
Ethanol in the fuel is horrible, especially long term. Probably needs cleaned but again, I dont think the carb is your problem.

It is not running properly on all 4 cylinders. It almost acts like the timing is 180 degrees out or two cylinders aren't firing.
Really hard to tell from the video. This one is going to require more diagnosis than I can give to you over the internet.
Recommend you find someone that knows aircooled vw engines.

And better have someone chase your wiring harness for a grounded lead.
I would look at the reverse light lead coming off the coil first.
Again, you will want someone that knows aircooled vw's. The circuits aren't the same as a ford/chevy or anything else for that matter.

BTW, full oil capacity is less than 3 quarts on that engine. Check the dipstick with a cold engine.
Anything more than that and it will puke out that breather filter you have there.
I haven't put new gas in it in probably over a year. So that would make sense that it's old gas that's gunking up the carb.
This is above my knowledge and experience so I'll definitely take it to an aircooled vw shop, there's a few in the Phoenix metro I've heard good things about.

Thank you @cannonfoddertfc! I really appreciate your wisdom on this matter.
 

· Registered
1972 Volkswagen Euro 1302S Super Beetle Deluxe
Joined
·
10 Posts
I am attaching a picture of the distributor that should be on your engine. Virtually everything on my car is OEM because it was in storage in Germany for 39 years and no one screwed around with it. Even when it was serviced in Germany after coming out of storage nothing was actually done to it. When I first got it in 2019 I needed to rebuild the front disc brake calipers. Yes, it has factory disc brakes. When I replaced the front hard lines with copper-nickel I discovered that the front flex hoses for the brakes were made by Fulda and were dated 4-72. One of the services done after storage was supposed to be the replacement of all the brake hoses; not done but paid for.
Cannot attach yet. Seems to be some problem. The correct distributor is one with a vacuum advance canister. The first number is JFU 4 and under that is two sets of part numbers. The first set is 0 231 146 101 and the VW part number is 113 905 205 AL. The spaces can be replaced by dashes or periods if you are search for the numbers. This distributor was what probably came on the car when it was new. The 009 distributor was originally used on buses that were in delivery service, i.e. stop and go driving that you would find in a city.
I also suspect that the carb probably needs a complete internal cleaning and the float set properly. The other thing that goes bad with great frequency is the solenoid on the side of the carburetor. Check that the wire to the choke is actually in place on the opposite side of the carburetor from the solenoid. If the solenoid is working it will click with the ignition key on. The reason for that thing is to cut off fuel to prevent engine run-on when the ignition is turned off. If it doesn't click on when the ignition key is turned to the on position, that can contribute to the running poorly.
There are some folks on TheSamba that are in the Phoenix area. Look up Ashman40 on TheSamba. Join TheSamba while you are there.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
The fix:
Retired VW Master Tech here.
Providing the engine is in good running order ( Tune-able):
Factory dual vacuum advance/retard distributor,timing adjusted after engine fully warm to OEM spec.
Carb:Stock jets,choke fast idle screw properly adjusted ( with choke fully closed,screw just touching fast idle cam + 1/4 turn ( critical to get this right).
Idle speed adjusted at large left side screw.Idle fuel mixture adjusted at left side small screw.
Carb Accelerator discharge nozzle properly aimed, Accelerator pump linkage properly adjusted.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hello!

I'm new to the forum, although I've been reading here for several months trying to figure out why my 73 super beetle convertible isn't running right. I've read a lot about the 34 carb and the 009 distributor combination, and I took pictures of mine to ask you all if you can tell me which carb and distributor I have. If I have the 34 carb and 009 distributor, what are my steps to get it running right?

Here's the symptoms of my bug.

  • It was running fine, then one day in spring of this year, it started shooting black smoke out the exhaust. Parked it in the garage, started it once a week for the last 6 months.
  • Took it out over the summer for 5 minutes (outside temperature about 100 degrees), had lots of white smoke and oil burning smell. Parked. Oil had fountained out of the filler neck into the engine bay. Bubbled paint right under the rear deck lid. Presumed overheating.
  • Haven't dared to take it out again. Started running it once a week in the garage with the garage open.
  • Each time we start it up, it will run for a minute, then when warming up will die. Sometimes, it will continue idling indefinitely, but the second you tap the gas after warming up, it makes a loud sound (kind of like choking or screeching), and dies.
  • One time a month ago, just took it around the block in the neighborhood. It has serious difficulty accelerating past 5mph, chokes and stutters a ton. Then, once it chokes itself to 15mph, it accelerates fine, albeit very slowly.

Haven't been able to figure out how to get it running right. Please help! Thank you for your advice.
Maybe there's something wrong with the carburetor, or there's too much carbon in the engine
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top