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Long time coming-my new toy

19463 Views 95 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  nbturbo
Been at this for 4 years and it's still on jackstands.http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=50353
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Gotta be a member to see attachment. Might wanna put a couple on here.
5
I started building this in 2006 and got a few bits together.Bought an Autocraft 96.5 X 88 which still had the Hilborn injection with twin throttle bodies.I have cut 80mm from a link pin front beam and cut the frame head to raise the beam 3 inches and laid it back 10 degrees.Added 2" dropped spindles and a set Strange discs from Geers.Built a full cage and used the full pan.I have cut the rear floors out and made it flat right thru.Have cut the rear frame horns off-then stitched another torsion tube 4'' higher and 4'' further back-giving 4'' longer wheel base.I have built a full tube rear frame to mount the trans/engine.Will be using a Bus Auto trans with Folts full spool and a beefed up 010 Auto,with Bus CV's and custom made drive shafts.Also bought a set of Strange rear discs from Geers.I am mid way thru rebuilding the diff with the spool and all new bearings etc.Have sent the auto out for it's rebuild.I have stripped the engine and had the case line bored and all the rotating bits balanced.Have assembled the case-but I am having some new cylinders made from cast tube.I have worked out the cylinder lengths to give me 8.6 C/R without the need for spacers.Have bought a T4 turbo and will run Methanol with computer driven injection.

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Looks good so far. Good things come to those who wait.
It was probably a good 6 or 7 years for me to get my car rolling.

Mike
nbturbo said:
I started building this in 2006 and got a few bits together.Bought an Autocraft 96.5 X 88 which still had the Hilborn injection with twin throttle bodies.I have cut 80mm from a link pin front beam and cut the frame head to raise the beam 3 inches and laid it back 10 degrees.Added 2" dropped spindles and a set Strange discs from Geers.Built a full cage and used the full pan.I have cut the rear floors out and made it flat right thru.Have cut the rear frame horns off-then stitched another torsion tube 4'' higher and 4'' further back-giving 4'' longer wheel base.I have built a full tube rear frame to mount the trans/engine.Will be using a Bus Auto trans with Folts full spool and a beefed up 010 Auto,with Bus CV's and custom made drive shafts.Also bought a set of Strange rear discs from Geers.I am mid way thru rebuilding the diff with the spool and all new bearings etc.Have sent the auto out for it's rebuild.I have stripped the engine and had the case line bored and all the rotating bits balanced.Have assembled the case-but I am having some new cylinders made from cast tube.I have worked out the cylinder lengths to give me 8.6 C/R without the need for spacers.Have bought a T4 turbo and will run Methanol with computer driven injection.
nice start. what year body are you useing?
3
I have a mid 60's body that I have cut 100mm behind the "B" pillar.I will cover the body in with aluminium and a lexan window.I have had aluminium sheets rolled and folded to the same shape as the doors and will make some fibreglass mudguards.The sides will just clip onto steel support brackets and will make a rear spoiler from ally.The rear roll cage bars will come through a lexan rear window.I have had really light fibreglass "Aero Style "front guards and front bonnet made.Just trying something a bit different.This was the first one I cut-but I didn't leave enough B pillar-it wouldn't clear the roll cage,so have done another one.This is a shot of Aero guards I have on my Oval.

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Can you explain why you cut half the rear half off? I'm slightly confused unless you plan on making some sort of fun cup style rear end opener
Want to build a Drag Car version of this.

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shag55 said:
That buruck is sweet!
They really have a name??? Way back when there was a bunch of people building "bug truck's" mostly from ones that got hit in the rear, but didnt know they had a real name to them.
Guess I need to pull my head out of the sand more often...

Mike
nbturbo said:
Want to build a Drag Car version of this.
Approved. Wow. I was so confused as to why it got all hacked up and now I want to see more progress!!
thats cool I like the bus door on the back are you making yours the same way or are you going to make the whole back half removable. that would be nice access to your running gear. way cool!!
No the whole back will lift off.Will probably be in 3 sections-rear half of top cover and the 2 sides (all in 0.6mm aluminium).I also like the Bus rear door-can get just the outer skin done in fibreglass and clip on as well.I have just finished assembling the diff section-all new bearings,seals,O-rings and the Folts spool.Got good crown wheel/pinion mesh markings and 0.008 " backlash.Have masked it up ready for a coat of paint.I had sort of planned on doing the pan and roll cage in a shiny silver colour-difinately going to now-just got my January hot VWs and saw what I wanted mine to look like-absolutely love it. (also a bit like me-an old "fart" trying to race)
Trick concept, looking foward to this when rolling.
nbturbo said:
I have a mid 60's body that I have cut 100mm behind the "B" pillar.I will cover the body in with aluminium and a lexan window.I have had aluminium sheets rolled and folded to the same shape as the doors and will make some fibreglass mudguards.The sides will just clip onto steel support brackets and will make a rear spoiler from ally.The rear roll cage bars will come through a lexan rear window.I have had really light fibreglass "Aero Style "front guards and front bonnet made.Just trying something a bit different.This was the first one I cut-but I didn't leave enough B pillar-it wouldn't clear the roll cage,so have done another one.This is a shot of Aero guards I have on my Oval.
I'm interested in the way you mounted your cage to the pans. Is this legal? I like it better than just one 6 by 6 plate, looks stronger.
Yes it's legal and I reckon stronger than plates bolted to the pan.I have welded 2.5 mm thick square tube along the bottom of the pan where the body mounts,and then welded the steel plates to that as well as the centre tunnel.I have cut the second tunnel I had welded on top of the original one-was not needed for strength and just extra unwanted weight.
3
Got the diff painted tonight and fitted the drive flanges with Dave's special washers and bolts.Finished the beam as well-all brakes and spindles done and painted.I am bolting every thing back onto the pan as I finish each bit,to do the final test and fit before stripping it down to paint the pan.

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5
Got the engine assembled and have made the intake and exhaust manifolds.Have purchased some bits for the auto from Transaxle Engineering in LA.Bought a full manual shift valve body,modified clutch hubs,Chrome Moly drive shaft and pump flower.

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