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Long time coming-my new toy

19460 Views 95 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  nbturbo
Been at this for 4 years and it's still on jackstands.
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My other friend has taken over selling the injector holders. They're still available via:

If you only need bases, he sells them separately.

What transmission is that? (It looks like a T4 auto)
It's from a Vanagon with heaps of Transaxle Engineering bit's inside.I started out with a Type 4 auto,but the Folts spool wouldn't fit,and after some miscommunication,discovered I had the wrong trans and the 2 transmissions are very different in the auto and the diff sections.I had to modify the front mount plate because the Vanagon one is a bit shorter.Have actually been thinking I may need another 4 injectors.Will see what Pat comes up with when he does the program to load into the ECU.I really like the idea of the -6 fittings so can use flexible hose to hook it all together.
My injection kit from CB arrived today and it's all top quality.The harness is just awesome.Was wondering where you blokes fit the cylinder head temp probe on 910 heads?I have no cylinder cooling,so can't sit it in the airflow under the top of a cylinder.I have only 1 wire I can't find a home for-it goes to a VR Sensor-and the only spare fitting is the crank trigger sensor-so I assume they go together.
the crank sensor sounds right what does the cht sensor look like?
Just looks like one that goes in a the cooling system
Any ideas on where it should be fitted? I have no cooling stuff because I will be using Methanol,so I am guessing as close to the combustion chamber as possible.Here is a shot- it has 2 wires in the white loom.


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because cb has calibrated this system to read at a specific place on the engine i would call and ask where they put it. putting it under the car will read coldest near the exhaust HOT in the oil cold then might be to hot later. Then again your wanting to run meth so your in for some work. Dont think your system is going to auto tune that fuel.
I'm running CB's old system, and am using OEM fuel injection heads. I tapped into the factory boss. I can't find a great pic, but this shows it on my Type 3 motor before I drilled and tapped:

Here's a better pic of a head without cooling tin, you can see the tapped boss on the right.

This is not a hole into the rocker area, but dead ends.

CB shows this in their instructions. CB also shows tapping into the boss for the valve cover bails, or recommends just below them, if you're still using bails. (Not sure if your heads have these)
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Thanks Brian and Notched-I'm using 910 heads,so no bail bosses.I have sent Pat an email to get his ideas on where it should go.
Still plugging away with this.Bought some Bosch low impedance 160lb injectors-so should be big enough.Hope they can be timed down low enough to get a decent idle from them.Finished all the wiring,so all the lights,starter,nuetral start switch,fuel pump etc are all working.I have had to modify the CB crank angle probe position.The brackets are for a VW type case and won't fit the Autocraft one.I cut a new keyway slot in the crank pulley so I could move the trigger wheel 90 degrees clockwise.I then cut the CB probe mounting bracket and welded it to an ally angle bracket.Really pleased how it turned out.Still got all the same adjustment.Modified VW shifter is in and working.


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Nice set up. What size are your intake runners?
nbturbo said:
Thanks Brian and Notched-I'm using 910 heads...
I've tapped one of the 5th and 6th stud holes (that I'm not using) on my 910 heads, and used it to locate a cyl head temp sender (the kind that are designed to go under the sparkplug, which doesn't work with 12mm plugs). AC but a lot of material around the extra stud hole bosses, good thermal mass. Depending on the FI temp sender's thread, the same might work for you.

12 and 10 mm ring thermocouples are available.

Also if you have a wire crimper (wink wink) you just need to find a ring crimp terminal that fits your plugs, strip the TC wires, and crimp them together. Nothing special about it.

Thanks for your reply-mine is 1/8th NPT - I have drilled and tapped through the cooling fins right alongside the number 4 exhaust port-will quickly get heat there.
Hey, i thought MSD dizzys hit the shroud on a t3, am I wrong, or what did you do to get it to work?
Still plugging away with it.Had too much negative camber on the rear wheels,so did the swap from side to side of the rear arms and swapped all the brackets over.Got the slightest positive now which should flatten out under power.Finished the exhaust and had it coated.Bought all Aeromotive stuff for the fuel system-1400HP pump,100 and 40 mic filters and FPR.Started to make a rear guard to get a fibreglass mould made.Used the back half of 2 front guards and joined them,then added 130mm of flat to give me enough to cover the slicks.


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Last job on the list before I can start the engine-I have to make a flex plate.I have machined a new centre boss with the 8 dowells and made the flange where the plate bolts up 10mm thick.I have cut the chrome moly plate and will drill it for 8 bolts(5/16 UNF by grade 8)I need to make a new ally rear engine plate 5mm thicker to give me the correct torque convertor depth into the transmission front drive dogs. I have made the front half of the ally frame which all my side panels will clip on to.I used 20mm ally square tube which ended up being way more rigid than I was expecting.


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